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Four Australian fashion brands explain why they produce garments offshore
Shifting our focus from the ‘where’ to the ‘how’.
I’ve been working in fashion for over five years now, and only in the last year or so have I noticed a real movement in the way we talk about clothing manufacturing. It seems we’re no longer conflating ‘ethical’ and ‘slow’ fashion with ‘local’ fashion, and no longer place so much emphasis on the country where the garment was made. Instead, we’re more closely thinking about the people and practices that are behind our next purchase.
Gone are the days of scrutinising labels for producing garments offshore, or questioning a brand’s ethics due to faraway production. We’re now shifting focus to consider the ways our clothing is made, under what working conditions and with what materials. As one of the talented designers in this article will reveal, “it is not where your garments are made, but how they are made and who is making them”.
For more fashion news, shoots, articles and features, head to our Fashion section.
There’s admittedly something rather ‘nice’ about manufacturing locally in Australia. Most obviously, it has a direct impact on local economy and helps create jobs. Working conditions are held to Australian standards and the ease of visiting a production facility can help a brand secure transparency over its supply chain. ‘Australian-made’ also carries a positive sentiment both here and globally, as a marker of quality construction.
Still, local production is more difficult than you might think. In recent decades, a huge number of Australian manufacturing facilities have shut their doors. Along with these closures, Australia’s pool of skilled workers has shrunk dramatically, too. It might not be physically possible for a brand to manufacture locally, and even if it is, the cost of doing so might be prohibitive.
If a brand manages to secure a manufacturer locally, often garment production involves a host of imported materials anyway. These might be the fabrics from which the garment is made, or all the haberdashery (like buttons, zips, thread) that is used in its construction.
Put simply, there are so many reasons why a brand or designer might choose to manufacture abroad. Here, four clever (and sustainably-minded) designers discuss how, where and why they produce their products the way they do. Their intentions are connected by one common thread: to make clothing that can be cherished, worn over and over again, and then mended or passed down to someone else for a second life.
Elinor McInnes, Founder of Joslin
What portion of your garments are made offshore versus locally in Australia?
Joslin produces all garments offshore, predominantly in China and now, India.
Where do you manufacture your garments, and why?
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We strongly believe it is not where your garments are made, but how they are made and who is making them. We produce our garments in China for their strengths in modern technology, skill and traditional craft, attention to detail, high quality control, availability of raw materials in close proximity to factories, availability of dye houses, print houses and a broad range of trim vendors.
We are now producing in India due to their strengths in artisanal techniques, handcraft, lace, beading and embroidery that will further expand Joslin’s product line.
As our business continues to grow, we recognise the importance of being proactive in supporting the rights of those involved in the manufacture of our garments, our textiles, our yarns, our trims and our raw materials. We are constantly striving for further transparency in the supply chain. Joslin does due diligence in ensuring certification, traceability and authenticity, improving environmental conditions, social and ethical compliance, and carbon footprint within our supply chain.
How does your brand navigate the clothing waste crisis we face?
Joslin values trans-seasonal and enduring design elements to give garments longevity, believing that no garment is ever designed to be worn once. Joslin uses the same textiles, materials, trims, and raw materials in each collection to eliminate deadstock waste. This is why you’ll see a minimal variety of fabrications used. If one of Joslin’s makers or mills overbuys or overproduces a textile, the overs will be cut into the following purchase order of apparel instead of going to dead stock.
We proudly support Thread Together and other charities in ongoing clothing donations, keeping our excess stock and deadstock in circulation while dressing women in their most needed hour and supporting the broader community during devastating events.
Brooke Testoni, Founder of Rylan
What portion of your garments are made offshore versus locally in Australia?
All Rylan handbags are handcrafted in Northern Italy.
Where do you manufacture your garments and why?
We produce our leather handbags in Italy using premium Italian leather. It is extremely important to me that Rylan handbags are defined by classic design, and a quality finish to stand the test of time. Our extensive research and sampling initiatives have [shown us] the quality and finish from Italy is unparalleled.
How does your brand navigate the clothing waste crisis we are facing?
Our production aligns to orders placed by a very limited number of exclusive retail partners, and our online store showcases a tightly curated selection of styles. Fortunately, we sell through most styles – we don’t experience an accumulation of excess stock, and maintain minimal inventory.
Erin Fitzgerald, Marketing Manager at Friends with Frank
What portion of your garments are made offshore versus locally in Australia?
The proportion between what we make locally versus offshore will differ with every season and what type of garments we’re producing [that season]. For our upcoming Spring/Summer ’22 collection, approximately 85 per cent of the range is being made with our local production partners and 15 per cent offshore.
Come Autumn/Winter, the proportion will skew back towards offshore. For many years now, we have been producing our signature coating and knitwear with the same trusted overseas suppliers.
Where do you manufacture your garments and why?
We manufacture both locally here in Melbourne, and with our production partners in China. For us, where we choose to manufacture depends on which one of our suppliers is best placed to produce that type of garment.
We consider their area of expertise, technical capability, and the machinery and technology the supplier has available. For example, the majority of our knitwear we make with an offshore supplier, who creates beautiful knitwear. We have been working together for many years now, and find the quality incomparable to what we’ve been able to source locally; especially as knitting mills and machinery are harder to come by in Australia.
On the other hand, a lot of our tailoring – linen trousers, blazers and shirting – is made here in Melbourne. The expert craftsmanship and attention to detail of our local makers is a real strength.
Katia Kelso, co-founder of Ilio Nema
What portion of your garments are made offshore versus locally in Australia?
We produce all of our garments offshore due to the craftsmanship and techniques needed to make our pieces. Ilio Nema’s foundation is based on hand-crafted practices including handwoven textiles, handwork and traditional techniques that are not found in Australia. We search for the world’s most beautiful artisanal techniques and celebrate the communities that have preserved them.
As our collection grows, we’d like to make some garments in Australia — especially knitwear, because wool is so much a part of the Australian ethos. Our intention is to limit our carbon footprint and produce garments ethically, so if we are using Australian wool it makes sense to knit it locally as well.
Where do you manufacture your garments and why?
We work with artisanal communities in India and Morocco using natural fibres such as cotton and linen. When producing in India, we use cotton that is grown by local farmers then spun, woven and sewn locally and embellished by local artisans. Our production is vertical and is the only way we think it should be done, to minimise the impact on the environment.
In working with artisan communities we support rural development, stimulate employment where opportunities are lacking and sustain production circles that are in proximity to farmer producers. Our factory partners are smaller, family-run [businesses] with highly skilled workers who create something that could not be done in Australia. Our hand-weaving is done on traditional looms and [it] requires days to make just a few metres of fabric.
Shifting our focus from the ‘where’ to the ‘how’.
I’ve been working in fashion for over five years now, and only in the last year or so have I noticed a real movement in the way we talk about clothing manufacturing. It seems we’re no longer conflating ‘ethical’ and ‘slow’ fashion with ‘local’ fashion, and no longer place so much emphasis on the country where the garment was made. Instead, we’re more closely thinking about the people and practices that are behind our next purchase.
Gone are the days of scrutinising labels for producing garments offshore, or questioning a brand’s ethics due to faraway production. We’re now shifting focus to consider the ways our clothing is made, under what working conditions and with what materials. As one of the talented designers in this article will reveal, “it is not where your garments are made, but how they are made and who is making them”.
For more fashion news, shoots, articles and features, head to our Fashion section.
There’s admittedly something rather ‘nice’ about manufacturing locally in Australia. Most obviously, it has a direct impact on local economy and helps create jobs. Working conditions are held to Australian standards and the ease of visiting a production facility can help a brand secure transparency over its supply chain. ‘Australian-made’ also carries a positive sentiment both here and globally, as a marker of quality construction.
Still, local production is more difficult than you might think. In recent decades, a huge number of Australian manufacturing facilities have shut their doors. Along with these closures, Australia’s pool of skilled workers has shrunk dramatically, too. It might not be physically possible for a brand to manufacture locally, and even if it is, the cost of doing so might be prohibitive.
If a brand manages to secure a manufacturer locally, often garment production involves a host of imported materials anyway. These might be the fabrics from which the garment is made, or all the haberdashery (like buttons, zips, thread) that is used in its construction.
Put simply, there are so many reasons why a brand or designer might choose to manufacture abroad. Here, four clever (and sustainably-minded) designers discuss how, where and why they produce their products the way they do. Their intentions are connected by one common thread: to make clothing that can be cherished, worn over and over again, and then mended or passed down to someone else for a second life.
Elinor McInnes, Founder of Joslin
What portion of your garments are made offshore versus locally in Australia?
Joslin produces all garments offshore, predominantly in China and now, India.
Where do you manufacture your garments, and why?
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New Zealand label Benjamin Alexander is reinventing classic silhouettes
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Aaliyah Hadid
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New Zealand label Benjamin Alexander is reinventing classic silhouettes
New Zealand label Benjamin Alexander is reinventing classic silhouettes PHOTOGRAPHY BY VERONICA CROCKFORD-POUND FOR BENJAMIN ALEXANDER WORDS BY SERAPHINA NICHOLLS “I find it hard to speak to what the thinking is behind my clothing because it is so simply who I am.” Starting an independent...
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JuiceJame
Four Australian fashion brands explain why they produce garments offshore
Four Australian fashion brands explain why they produce garments offshore Shifting our focus from the ‘where’ to the ‘how’. I’ve been working in fashion
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We strongly believe it is not where your garments are made, but how they are made and who is making them. We produce our garments in China for their strengths in modern technology, skill and traditional craft, attention to detail, high quality control, availability of raw materials in close proximity to factories, availability of dye houses, print houses and a broad range of trim vendors.
We are now producing in India due to their strengths in artisanal techniques, handcraft, lace, beading and embroidery that will further expand Joslin’s product line.
As our business continues to grow, we recognise the importance of being proactive in supporting the rights of those involved in the manufacture of our garments, our textiles, our yarns, our trims and our raw materials. We are constantly striving for further transparency in the supply chain. Joslin does due diligence in ensuring certification, traceability and authenticity, improving environmental conditions, social and ethical compliance, and carbon footprint within our supply chain.
How does your brand navigate the clothing waste crisis we face?
Joslin values trans-seasonal and enduring design elements to give garments longevity, believing that no garment is ever designed to be worn once. Joslin uses the same textiles, materials, trims, and raw materials in each collection to eliminate deadstock waste. This is why you’ll see a minimal variety of fabrications used. If one of Joslin’s makers or mills overbuys or overproduces a textile, the overs will be cut into the following purchase order of apparel instead of going to dead stock.
We proudly support Thread Together and other charities in ongoing clothing donations, keeping our excess stock and deadstock in circulation while dressing women in their most needed hour and supporting the broader community during devastating events.
Brooke Testoni, Founder of Rylan
What portion of your garments are made offshore versus locally in Australia?
All Rylan handbags are handcrafted in Northern Italy.
Where do you manufacture your garments and why?
We produce our leather handbags in Italy using premium Italian leather. It is extremely important to me that Rylan handbags are defined by classic design, and a quality finish to stand the test of time. Our extensive research and sampling initiatives have [shown us] the quality and finish from Italy is unparalleled.
How does your brand navigate the clothing waste crisis we are facing?
Our production aligns to orders placed by a very limited number of exclusive retail partners, and our online store showcases a tightly curated selection of styles. Fortunately, we sell through most styles – we don’t experience an accumulation of excess stock, and maintain minimal inventory.
Erin Fitzgerald, Marketing Manager at Friends with Frank
What portion of your garments are made offshore versus locally in Australia?
The proportion between what we make locally versus offshore will differ with every season and what type of garments we’re producing [that season]. For our upcoming Spring/Summer ’22 collection, approximately 85 per cent of the range is being made with our local production partners and 15 per cent offshore.
Come Autumn/Winter, the proportion will skew back towards offshore. For many years now, we have been producing our signature coating and knitwear with the same trusted overseas suppliers.
Where do you manufacture your garments and why?
We manufacture both locally here in Melbourne, and with our production partners in China. For us, where we choose to manufacture depends on which one of our suppliers is best placed to produce that type of garment.
We consider their area of expertise, technical capability, and the machinery and technology the supplier has available. For example, the majority of our knitwear we make with an offshore supplier, who creates beautiful knitwear. We have been working together for many years now, and find the quality incomparable to what we’ve been able to source locally; especially as knitting mills and machinery are harder to come by in Australia.
On the other hand, a lot of our tailoring – linen trousers, blazers and shirting – is made here in Melbourne. The expert craftsmanship and attention to detail of our local makers is a real strength.
Katia Kelso, co-founder of Ilio Nema
What portion of your garments are made offshore versus locally in Australia?
We produce all of our garments offshore due to the craftsmanship and techniques needed to make our pieces. Ilio Nema’s foundation is based on hand-crafted practices including handwoven textiles, handwork and traditional techniques that are not found in Australia. We search for the world’s most beautiful artisanal techniques and celebrate the communities that have preserved them.
As our collection grows, we’d like to make some garments in Australia — especially knitwear, because wool is so much a part of the Australian ethos. Our intention is to limit our carbon footprint and produce garments ethically, so if we are using Australian wool it makes sense to knit it locally as well.
Where do you manufacture your garments and why?
We work with artisanal communities in India and Morocco using natural fibres such as cotton and linen. When producing in India, we use cotton that is grown by local farmers then spun, woven and sewn locally and embellished by local artisans. Our production is vertical and is the only way we think it should be done, to minimise the impact on the environment.
In working with artisan communities we support rural development, stimulate employment where opportunities are lacking and sustain production circles that are in proximity to farmer producers. Our factory partners are smaller, family-run [businesses] with highly skilled workers who create something that could not be done in Australia. Our hand-weaving is done on traditional looms and [it] requires days to make just a few metres of fabric.